photo/Naomi Zarin

Palace Diner
18 Franklin St., Biddeford
284.0015
palacedinerme.com

Here’s the problem: If I tell you how good the Palace Diner is, you’re going to want to go. And there’s really not enough room for all of us. But you deserve the truth. We’re just going to have to agree not to complain if there’s a long wait, OK?

Good. Because the truth is that, tucked away on a side street in downtown Biddeford, this tiny 1927 railroad car diner is quietly serving up some of the best breakfast in America.

The Palace Diner has garnered some impressive reviews since partners Chad Conley and Greg Mitchell took the helm early in 2014. In addition to local press, Bon Appétit has featured it no fewer than three times (including a nomination as one of the country’s 50 best new restaurants). But I was dubious of all that breathless hype. Sure, this grungy, crumbling mill town has been experiencing something resembling a renaissance lately (I’ve even heard it referred to as “Portland’s Brooklyn,” whatever that’s supposed to mean). Still, all this fuss over a diner in Biddeford? I had to check it out for myself.

There was a short wait when my wife, daughter and I arrived mid-morning on a recent Sunday. That’s to be expected at a place with just 15 seats at the counter and no booths or tables. (By the time we paid the bill, the wait was up to 45 minutes.)

When our turn arrived, we mounted three stools and considered the menu. No fancy ingredients here, just a short, simple list of breakfast and lunch items (everything’s available all day) and a specials board. By the time two hot mugs of strong coffee ($2.50), brewed with freshly ground beans from Portland’s Tandem Coffee Roasters, arrived, we were ready to order.

My daughter opted for buttermilk flapjacks with Maine maple syrup ($9). Lightly crisp on the outside, with a fluffy, slightly lemony center, these were as close to perfect as we’ve had in a long time. Her side order of applewood bacon ($4) was flawless: thick-cut, meaty, yet shatteringly crisp.

The corned beef hash on the menu was tempting, but I decided to order sausage gravy and a biscuit ($12) off the specials board. Good choice. The gravy was rich, creamy and slightly spicy; the two eggs on top were expertly sunny side up; and the slightly sweet, griddled cornmeal biscuit was an unexpected treat.

Though I can’t endorse eating tuna fish for breakfast, in the case of my wife’s tuna melt ($11), I’ll make an exception. Just the right amount of mayo and a thin layer of crisp dill pickles made this sandwich really special. The side of French fries ($4) were among the best she’d ever had. In a nod to the early hour, she also ordered a caramelized grapefruit ($2.50) — a refreshing way to pretend that vitamins are important.

As our meal was ending, the friendly patron on my right noticed me ogling her Palace Potatoes (served as a side with some entrées; otherwise $4) and offered to share. I’m glad she did. These were unlike any breakfast potatoes I’ve ever had. Silky smooth mashed potato inside, crusty, crunchy and aggressively seasoned outside, they were more like a transcendent potato fritter than hash browns or home fries. Whatever you call them, I ate four good-sized chunks before saying uncle.

The Palace Diner serves simple diner fare elevated to fine-dining standards. It’s worth making the drive to Biddeford and waiting as long as it takes to claim your spot at the counter. Just remember: be patient. You promised.

— Dan Zarin

The Palace Diner serves breakfast Wednesday-Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.