Elevenses
50 Maine St., Brunswick
In comedy, it’s a well established principle that a performance works only if you fully “commit to the bit.” Otherwise, it falls flat.
At Elevenses, which opened last year in downtown Brunswick, they’ve taken that principle to heart, with a menu and atmosphere that support their theme of folksy fantasy, in general, and The Lord of the Rings, in particular. Precisely because they totally go for it and don’t try to take themselves too seriously, the whole thing just works.
I met my friend Rob and his daughter, Hannah, at Elevenses on a recent Wednesday morning. From the rustic wooden tables to the Middle-earth-inspired mural over the bar, the décor immediately transported us to a magical realm. We sat and perused both the “first breakfast” and “second breakfast” menus before placing our order at the counter.
Hot, fresh coffee ($3.95) arrived in three large, mismatched ceramic mugs that kept it warm throughout the meal. While we waited for our entrées, we shared a slice of warm Cinnamon Roll Bread Pudding ($7.95) that was dense, rich and decadent without being overly sweet.
I ordered the Rapscallion Wrap ($12.95): soft scrambled eggs, cheese and bacon inside a scallion pancake. The pancake was nicely crisp, if a little on the greasy side. It could have used more seasoning, but the tangy “Ember Sauce” on the side was quite flavorful and I happily ate the whole thing.
Rob chose the Brekkie Burrito ($11.95). Filled with chunks of chorizo, potatoes, scrambled eggs, salsa and cheese, and seasoned with mildly spiced Kitchen Goblin Sauce (we humans might call it “taco sauce”), it was tasty and filling.
Hannah, a true LOTR fan, picked the best-named menu item, The One-ion Ring Sammy ($11.95): a runny fried egg, sausage, goat cheese, chili oil and an onion ring on a split English muffin. I’d say it was delicious, but it’s probably more appropriate to call it “my precious.”
I have some hardcore sci-fi/fantasy nerds in my life who’d absolutely love Elevenses; I’ll definitely bring them the next time they’re in town. I myself am eager to return and try items like the Sorcerer’s Scotch Egg, Wanderer’s Loaded Walking Potato and Bladecraft Brunch Burger (which comes with its own sword). The kids’ menu items are also creative and fantastical, although I’m pretty certain Dragon Booger Pancakes and Unicorn Poo Waffles aren’t strictly canon.
As Gandalf tells Frodo in The Fellowship of the Ring, “All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given to us.” In a realm where restaurant interiors and breakfast menus are often interchangeable, I’m happy to spend some of that time in a place that dares to be different, embraces the adventure and, above all, commits to the bit.
Elevenses is open Wednesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
