photos/Dan Zarin

Artemisia Café 
61 Pleasant St., Portland
761-0135

You’re probably not going to stumble into Artemisia Café by accident. Nestled in a quiet, semi-residential neighborhood, a few blocks removed from the chaos of the Old Port, it’s easy to miss. Let me be the one to say: please don’t make that mistake.

I arrived with my wife and daughter in tow, about noon on a Sunday. From the outside, it looked like a neighborhood bar — only an unassuming blue awning and a small chalkboard sign served to let us know we had found the right place. Inside was a whole different scene. From the eclectic art on the walls, to the mismatched coffee mugs, to the cozy booths packed with young families, aging hipsters and tattooed, bohemian twentysomethings, Artemisia instantly felt comfortable and welcoming.

Fast, friendly service sustained the mood. Our server greeted us moments after we were seated, and returned almost immediately with our beverages. We decided to forgo the tempting mango mimosa and stuck with our standard cranberry juice and coffee. The Fair Trade-certified house brew was distinct, bold and smoky — it worked for me, but may not for everybody. Serving milk on the side, instead of cream, seemed a pretty forgivable offense (and one easily remedied). 

We spent an inordinate amount of time wrestling with the extensive brunch menu. I personally changed my mind about six times, which is generally a good sign. Breakfast offerings ($5-$10) ranged from a house-made granola with French vanilla yogurt, to a roasted red pepper, goat cheese and baby spinach frittata. Lunch items ($7-$14) included tempting offerings like the open-faced rib-eye sandwich with gorgonzola-mushroom sauce, and the pork sandwich with pineapple-mango chutney. 

After we placed our order, the food arrived so quickly — and looked so delicious — I forgot to take photos until we were halfway done.

Having finally settled on the kielbasa hash and eggs, I was not disappointed. Smoky cubes of grilled polish sausage, browned chunks of potato and sweet potato, and sautéed bell peppers were covered with a blanket of sharp cheddar and topped with two perfectly poached eggs. The accompanying multigrain toast was soft, chewy and flavorful, and paired perfectly with the (presumably) homemade raspberry jam. 

From the specials board, my wife ordered a masterful veggie benedict featuring asparagus, grape tomatoes, mushroom and baby spinach. Once again, the eggs were poached to perfection: firm, opaque, cooked whites and warm, runny yolks. The hollandaise was light and lemony, the potato-and-sweet-potato homefries crisp and delicately seasoned. My wife nearly wept with joy.

But the clear winner here — and easily one of the best breakfasts I’ve had in a decade — was my two-year-old daughter’s cinnamon graham French toast. Moist and custardy throughout, the thick-sliced toast was encrusted with a thin layer of crunchy cinnamon-graham-cracker crumbs and topped with sautéed Granny Smith apples. Real, honest-to-goodness maple syrup was served on the side, at no extra charge. (I shouldn’t even have to mention that, but tragically, this seems to be the exception here in Portland.)

Though the option didn’t appear on the menu, our thoughtful server was kind enough to offer a half order of the French toast (an above-and-beyond moment greatly appreciated by this parent). At my daughter’s request, we added a side of chewy, thin-sliced bacon that tasted of pork, rather than just salt — the way bacon ought to taste.

Bottom line? This is the place we’ve been searching for since we moved to Maine. As breakfast goes, it’s certainly not cheap. But unlike many other high-end brunch spots in the area, Artemisia truly delivers on its promise.

— Dan Zarin

Artemisia Café serves brunch Saturday and Sunday from 9 a.m.-2 p.m. They’re open for lunch weekdays from 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner is served Thursday, Friday and Saturday evenings from 5 p.m.-9 p.m.