photo/Naomi Zarin

The King’s Head
254 Commercial St., Portland
805.1252
thekingsheadportland.com

Due to the conservative cultural sensitivities that prevail here in the U.S., drinking at breakfast is generally frowned upon. Brunch, however, is a totally different story. As a society, we’ve decided that as long as there’s salad on the menu it’s acceptable to start boozing before noon. Way to go, America.

While many restaurants are capable of putting out great food and decent cocktails simultaneously, some days — cold midwinter mornings, in particular — call for drinks first, food second. If you’re lucky, you can find a place where both are done well. The King’s Head, a pub located on Merrill’s Wharf, on the ground floor of the Pierce Atwood building, fits that bill nicely.

When my wife, 10-year-old daughter and I stopped by on a recent Sunday, at least two of us were eager to shake off the morning’s shoveling with an adult beverage. I ordered the house Bloody Mary (a bargain at $5) and my wife selected Bunker Brewing’s Dark Wave Baltic Porter ($7) from the list of 40 beers on tap. My Bloody was just the way I like ’em: moderately spicy, with a heavy dose of horseradish. It was garnished with a strip of house-made jerky. My wife’s beer was rich, velvety smooth, and so dark that a passerby might almost be fooled into thinking she was drinking coffee from a glass.

Drinks in hand, we were ready to eat.

My daughter ordered Buttermilk Griddlers ($9), three pancakes served with berries, honey crème fraîche and maple syrup. The cakes were slightly burnt, which was a bit off-putting, but the accompanying home fries were delicious. The diced Russet and sweet potatoes were nicely crisped, with an addictive sweet/salty seasoning more often encountered on sweet-potato fries. She also ordered a side of Irish rashers ($3.50), thick slices of lean, chewy back-bacon that she enjoyed immensely (though she was quick to point out that she still prefers the fattier, American-style bacon).

I requested the King’s Benedict ($15), two over-easy duck eggs with duck confit and hollandaise sauce, served on English muffins with a side of home fries. Unfortunately, the kitchen had run out of the confit, but the substitution of Irish rashers was acceptable under the circumstances. The giant duck eggs were nicely prepared. The hollandaise was pretty bland, but that was nothing a few healthy shakes of salt and pepper couldn’t fix.

Perhaps to justify the beer in front of her, my wife ordered the Brunch Burger ($14). The grass-fed beef patty was thick, juicy and cooked to a perfect medium. Piled high with Irish rashers, a fried egg, leaf lettuce and spicy ketchup, it was delicious but far too messy to pick up. On the side, a simple field-green salad, dressed with a light, tangy vinaigrette, helped offset the heaviness of the burger.

Although relatively new, The King’s Head has found solid footing among the brewpubs and gastro-bistros of the Old Port. We won’t rush back for brunch — at this price point, there are better options in town — but I look forward to returning to sample appetizers and more beers from their impressive tap list. I’ll probably visit later in the day, when I can enjoy a few pints free of guilt.

— Dan Zarin

The King’s Head serves brunch Sundays from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and Mondays from 10:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.