[Note: Shahnaz Persian Grille has since closed.]
Shahnaz Persian Grille
795 Forest Ave., Portland
879-2400 (p)
879-2402 (f)
For proof that Portland is achieving maturity as a cosmopolitan metropolis, look no further than the new Shahnaz Persian Grille on Forest Avenue. One bite of tender steak kabob, with a slice of fire-roasted tomato and some saffron basmati rice, and you realize you’re no longer in a small town with a few big buildings — this is a city with its own Persian restaurant, for Pete’s sake!
Of course, our population is far more diverse than it was 20 years ago, when Shahnaz Mahager stepped off the plane from Tehran with her three young children. Fortunately for us, Mahager also brought her extensive knowledge of Persian cuisine.
Persian epicuria has roots in the culture of Cyrus the Great, who ruled in the 5th century BC. Food served in the courts of ancient Persia included stews scented with saffron, cardamom, cinnamon, pomegranate and mint; tender, spit-roasted meats; and stuffed fruit and vegetables. It says something that the cooking in a land swept over the centuries by Mongols, Arabs, and the likes of Alexander the Great has survived largely intact.
Mahager ran a beauty salon on downtown Congress Street for many years. Last year, when the building her business occupied changed hands, she and partner Dan Eldert hatched a plan to start the Grille. After a year of effort, they opened the doors two months ago. Business has been brisk, but the pair admit they face an uphill climb to educate locals about this culinary style.
My companion and I started with an appetizer sampler ($7.50) that included grape leaves stuffed with a savory rice mixture; spiced eggplant, onion and tomato; a chicken, egg, olive, pepperoncini and potato mixture called Salad Oliveh; and the richest, silkiest hummus I have ever tasted. The sampler was served with ample pita bread and a handful of amazing pickled vegetables.
As we sipped cardamom-scented tea from classic Middle Eastern-style glassware, an elaborate stone fountain burbled gently in a corner. On one table, among some decorative, hard-bound books about Iran, I noticed a competition-quality backgammon board. (A nice touch — backgammon was invented by the Persians over 2,000 years ago.) A softly lit back room contained several more yellow-and-blue-tiled tables. Sconces adorn the walls, a harp sits in a corner by another little fountain, and these simple touches combined to give us the feeling we were in another land. It also helps that Eldert, who hosted a radio show on WMPG for many years as DJ Danski, knows a lot about world-beat music.
The two Persian specialties we chose were Ghormeh Sabzi, sirloin beef and kidney beans sautéed with dried lime and herbs over saffron basmati rice ($9.95); and Fessenjan, pulled chicken gently simmered in ground walnut and sweet-and-sour pomegranate sauce, also over saffron basmati rice ($9.95). The flavors and textures were fascinating, and a welcome break from the industrial corn syrup-based sauces and deep-fried gunk served at so many gimmicky caverns around here.
The kabobs are also a highlight, since Shahnaz’s grill is specially fitted for skewered meats like marinated chicken, lamb, and ground beef with onion and spices. We chose Shahnaz Soltani (the “King of the Kabobs”): the aforementioned steak and ground beef served with roasted tomato and the ever-present saffron basmati rice. There was a trail of spice dusted down the center of the dish that Mahager explained was sumac, traditionally served as a companion for the juicy meat. The menu has quite a few vegetarian options, too.
Our meals came with interesting side orders. We had two yogurt-based dishes: one with dill and cucumber, the other with chopped shallots. Others side options include a plate of fresh herbs, feta cheese and pita bread; and a variety of vegetables marinated or pickled in vinegar with a host of mysterious spices.
The desserts are wonderful. Mahager wouldn’t let us leave without trying her rosewater ice cream ($3.95), and I had to have one of her walnut-and-honey pastries liberally dusted with ground pistachios (two for $2.50). Our meal for two came to about $40, including endless cups of tea.
Shahnaz Persian Grille also sells spices and condiments like rose water and pomegranate syrup, as well as containers of pickled vegetables and rare items unique to Iranian cooking. I couldn’t resist dropping another $20 on some pomegranate syrup, tea, and a few grams of real Persian saffron. (I always thought the Spaniards had a lock on this regal spice, but now suspect it was poached from Persia centuries ago.)
Patrons can get takeout or dine in, but diners should be aware that there’s no wait staff — except on really busy nights, when a capable pal or relative is on hand. The food is served on disposable tableware: the plates are paper, the utensils are plastic.
Shahnaz Persian Grille is a genuine labor of love. Here’s hoping Mahager and Eldert can turn enough locals on to this cuisine to afford regular staff, chinaware and a Hobart to wash it in. It’s a rapturous experience to sit on Forest Avenue and enjoy a meal that has come together over the course of 2,000 years. Portland, at last, may be ready for this.
— Mort Peche
Shahnaz Persian Grille is open Tues. and Wed. from 11 a.m.-8 p.m., Thurs. through Sat. from 11 a.m.-9 p.m., and Sun. from 4 p.m.-9 p.m.
