photo/Dan Zarin
Magissa
91 Anderson St., Portland
956-2902
magissaportland.com
Over the course of its 2,800-year history, Greece has made countless contributions to Western civilization: philosophy, the Olympics and democracy, to name just a few. With some of those innovations (that last one, in particular) losing a bit of their luster lately, this seems an opportune time to indulge in one of Greek culture’s most enduring exports: its cuisine.
Here in Portland, Greek cooking has been underrepresented, especially since the sublime Emilitsa permanently closed in 2021. So lots of local food fans, myself included, celebrated when the owners of the popular Greeks of Peaks food truck launched a brick-and-mortar restaurant in the East Bayside space previously occupied by Baharat.
Since it opened last spring, Magissa has earned solid reviews for its homey, traditional flavors and elegant small plates. When they began serving Sunday brunch this January, I knew I had to check it out.
My friend Rob and I arrived shortly after the door was unlocked and chose a window-side table in the sunny dining room. I started with a cup of hot, fresh coffee ($5) while Rob sipped a mug of smooth, minty Greek Mountain Tea ($5).
The brunch menu listed plenty of tempting breakfast dishes, including Shakshuka ($15) and Souvlaki Fried Chicken & Waffles ($20), as well as more lunch-y options like salads and mezze plates.
After a great deal of waffling (pun fully intended), I ordered the Loukaniko Breakfast Sandwich ($16): a fluffy, griddled brioche bun with a sunny-side-up egg, mildly spiced loukaniko sausage, lemon aioli, shaved fresh fennel and melted fontina cheese. It was deeply flavorful and just slightly salty. With a decent portion of crispy, perfectly seasoned home fries included on the side, it was a very satisfyingly meal.
Rob’s Lamb Hash ($22) was another winning choice: rich, fatty shredded lamb mixed with sautéed onion and tiny cubes of potato and carrot, topped with two expertly poached eggs and served with triangles of soft pita bread to mop it all up. He left nothing on the plate.
Greek cuisine is back on Portland’s food scene — and not a century too late.
Magissa serves brunch on Sundays from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
