Pork & Potatoes at CBG. photo/Figgy DiBenedetto
CBG
617 Congress St., Portland
613-9356
cbgportland.com
There’s nothing wrong with taking food seriously, but the pressures and pretensions of living in a foodie city like Portland sometimes make me cynical and I want to stick it to the man. And by “the man,” I mean James Beard. Sometimes I want to visit a place the late, great gourmand would never consider giving a try, a joint like CBG.
Colloquially known as “the 600 Block,” the stretch of Congress Street CBG occupies is thick with colorful places to dine, drink and rock out — from vegetarian bistro Green Elephant to the live-music lounge Blue Portland Maine. On the grittier end there’s Geno’s for punk rock and metal, DTL for boozy scorpion bowls, and CBG for what its staff and owners refer to as “fine diving.”
The former Congress Bar & Grill was purchased and had its name foreshortened in 2019 by Mike Barbuto, Kevin Doyle and Mike Fraser, who both together and separately own numerous restaurants, including nearby Nosh. Just weeks into the 2020 shutdown, I remember peering into the newly remodeled space and shaking my head. This place had it all: 1970’s wood panelling and beer signs, a giant stuffed bear, and a still from The Big Lebowski that covers an entire wall. Dude, I thought, how will they survive this ordeal?
The answer: outdoor seating, heaters, fun cocktails, pub snacks and genuinely awesome service. Oh, and naugahyde wheelie chairs!
These fellas needed to make up for lost time, and by 2021 they were serving a full brunch, lunch and dinner menu. This isn’t your typical “frozen to fryer” pub dining; everything here is made from scratch. There are staples like a smash burger ($17) and chicken wings ($14), but both are lifted by the addition of homemade sauces — a tangy béarnaise for the burger, and for wings either traditional Buffalo, BBQ, or Chef Kevin’s proprietary Dorchester sauce, which is similar to teriyaki but less sticky.
Same for the Ribeye & Tenderloin Sandwich ($18). This heroic hoagie has thinly sliced steak and cheese on a toasted baguette, elevated by the addition of jammy caramelized onions, mushroom demi-glace and garlic aioli. Their fried-chicken sandwich ($17) has bacon, American cheese and hot mayo. The better-than-decent veggie burger ($15) is made of black beans, quinoa and sweet potatoes, and the fried-fish sandwich ($17) beats the average thanks to preserved lemon and olive tartar sauce.
The fork-and-knife options at CBG likewise satisfy. Their Breakfast Fried Rice ($15) has bacon, egg and (yes!) cheese, and the entrées on offer also include homemade Ricotta Parm Gnocchi ($18). There’s a Mac & Cheese ($15) with mornay sauce and herbed breadcrumbs that can be topped with spinach, bacon, Buffalo chicken or a hot dog for a few bucks more. James Beard may not have agreed, but after a late night of karaoke, hot-dog mac and cheese slaps hard.
Chef Beard may have agreed with me that CBG serves one of the best Fish & Chips in this city (and for only $19)! The fish is as fresh as can be, crispy not greasy, and served with a mound of homemade fries. I crave and consume it at least a couple times a month, but when I feel like switching things up I’ll get the Pork & Potatoes ($19), a dish that brings me back to my Missouri roots. Though not served on a bun (like a Midwestern pork tenderloin), the addition of pretzel breading and mustard béchamel is more than close enough.
Authenticity is tough amid this Instagramable food scene, but CBG is 100 percent genuine. The owners and staff clearly care about their patrons and their mission as a restaurant. The decor may be weird, but let’s keep at least some of Portland that way, please and thank you.
CBG is open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. and the kitchen’s open until midnight.
