photo/Dan Zarin

Lazzari
618 Congress St., Portland
536.0368

Breakfast. Pizza. Separately, two of my favorite words, but mashed together, the term brings to mind disappointingly greasy bar fare offered as an excuse to sell booze before noon. Or worse: über-fancy, overpriced artisanal flatbreads “elevated” to breakfast duty with the addition of a sunny-side-up egg. The breakfast pizzas at Lazzari avoid this trap. For a few hours each weekend, this new Congress Street eatery offers a short menu of outstanding wood-fired pies whose carefully chosen toppings bring “breakfast” and “pizza” together in sweet harmony.

Lazzari opened last May in the long-vacant space previously occupied by Mesa Verde. My wife, our 13-year-old daughter and I met some friends there on a recent Sunday shortly after they unlocked the door at 11 a.m. I started my meal with a Bloody Mary ($5 during brunch hours) that had a nice peppery kick and just the right level of booze, but lacked the horseradish punch I crave in a Bloody. Regular coffee was not available (we were told they’re working on this issue). My wife’s Cafe Americano ($4) was excellent, but our friend’s latte ($5) was barely warm.

We tried two of the three pizzas from the brunch menu, plus one from the regular menu. Each was big enough to satisfy two hungry people. My favorite was the Classic ($19), a masterful combination of rich Italian sausage, salty pancetta, sweet fire-roasted onions, provolone and mozzarella cheese, scrambled eggs and chives. The crisp, lightly charred crust was a perfect vehicle for the toppings, and I found myself reaching for slice after slice.

My wife preferred the House Favorite ($18), which is topped with Brussels sprouts, pancetta, goat cheese and scrambled eggs. The slightly bitter, herbaceous veggies played well against the tangy cheese and salty meat. We’ll definitely try the third, meatless option on a future visit.

The two teenagers at the table weren’t in the mood for breakfast, but happily devoured a marinara pizza ($11) despite (or because of) the intense saltiness of their chosen add-ons: capers and Kalamata olives ($1 each).

This brunch destination seems to be a well-kept secret — only one other party was seated by the time we left at 12:30. I’m happy to leak this classified information to you.

— Dan Zarin

Lazzari serves brunch Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.