photo/Chris Busby

Drinking and diving

As I settle onto the green vinyl stool with my Jim Beam double in hand, I take a moment to ponder why I’ve chosen to write about Amigos Mexican Restaurant. This Old Port dive bar has a reputation for being a PBR-and-bourbon-fueled weekend meat market (or so the kids say).

But Amigos is much more than its reputation would lead you to believe. For example, you can swing by Tuesday through Sunday for a full menu of damn tasty Mexican food at affordable prices. On top of that, they have specials like Taco Tuesday ($1 tacos). There’s a spacious patio out back (drinks only; no food out there) with its own satellite bar.

The pool tables provide a good excuse for a midafternoon visit. There’s a spacious darts corral and a couple video games (hunting and golfing). If it gets crowded downstairs, head upstairs, where yet another bar, and more comfortable seating for dining, await. Amigos regularly hosts live music inside and on the patio. The staff, most of whom have been there for many years, are practically local legends. Fellow bar and restaurant workers love Amigos. Those of us who toil beneath the hood gladly pay our union dues here, even without the inducement of a service-industry discount.

Because of all this, Amigos tends to be one of the busier barrooms in town. My theory (not scientifically proven) is that if there are 10 people at Amigos, you’ll be hard-pressed to find another Old Port bar with more than nine patrons. If you want to avoid the crowd, you better show up early, like pre-happy hour early. The place fills up quickly almost every night of the week. When last call approaches on a summer Saturday, it’s breathing room only.

Amigos is not a cocktail bar. There’s no cocktail list. I doubted whether they even had any stemmed glass (turns out they do have wine glasses for their very limited, yet well considered, selection of vino). But they do have that staple libation of Mexican restaurants, the Margarita.

Served in a 16 ounce glass packed with crushed ice, Amigos’ margarita is a simple but effective blend. It’s built on a base of Old Mexico Tequila, with freshly squeezed lime, orange juice, a dash of Bols Curacao, triple sec and a splash of sour. This version has a surprising amount of personality. The flavors balance well. There’s a distinct tartness, but not so much that you long for more triple sec to sweeten the drink. The mix is open enough to accomodate a range of tequilas, from the top shelf down to the well. The only difference you’ll notice is in the aftertaste — the house tequila is less smooth and burns a little longer.

The other mix I would be remiss not to mention is The Purple Raina. Raina herself recently prepared her signature cocktail for me. She whipped it up quickly just out of my line of sight. It’s a sugary, purple, soda-flavored concoction — candy in a tall glass. Raina won’t reveal the recipe, but what I can tell you is that if you like sweet drinks — especially Stewart’s Grape Soda — you won’t want to pass up the opportunity to try one when Raina’s behind the bar.

Though Amigos is not my first choice for cocktails, it’s consistently been my choice for getting a drink. No bar has seen me pass its threshold more often without paying me to be there. Amigos is all about atmosphere and familiarity. Regulars are the rule, not the exception. That speaks volumes and recommends the place more than any particular mixed drink.

— Carl Currie