Whiskey under the tree
’Tis the season to drink!
In past columns I’ve suggested gins and rums you could, and should, stock at home. This month I suggest a few whiskeys and vodkas to round out your collection. But before you venture out to visit your favorite local liquor merchant, I must impress upon you the two great rules of liquor shopping.
The first and foremost rule: Don’t feel guilty treating yourself to a bottle of top-shelf booze. To imbibe such spirits is one of the civilized pleasures of life. Think of it as an opportunity to appreciate the dedication of those who craft fine liquors. The best booze is usually worth its higher price.
The second great rule: Don’t feel ashamed to have a bottle of basic, off-brand alcohol handy for those long nights of socializing. Friends can and will drink their way through a bottle of fine Scotch, yet I know that by the third heavy pour their dulled senses couldn’t distinguish Lauder’s from The Macallan. Begin the evening with quality and (car keys well out of reach) make the switch to quantity toward the evening’s end. Knowing what you drink and why you’re drinking it — and when to put it away — will help ensure you get the most value from your home bar in these trying times.
American Bourbons and Whiskey
The saying is, “All bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon.” Bourbon is America’s answer to Irish whiskey. Though made all across the U.S., it’s generally associated with the South, particularly Kentucky, where state law requires it to be at least half corn mash. Once distilled, Kentucky bourbon must be stored in new, charred-oak barrels for aging. After aging (which mellows the spirit and gives it an amber hue), bourbon from the Bluegrass State must be bottled at 80 proof or greater.
American bourbon is generally sweet on the palate. I’ve never felt that it should have the kind of rough-cutting, “genuine burn” profile some brands have been striving for of late — looking at you, Knob Creek ($32.99 at my favorite shop). If you’re not aiming to overpower a cocktail, just reach for Jim Beam ($15.99), the classic Kentucky spirit. It’s great with water, on the rocks, with cola, or as a straight shot. For those guests who may find Beam a bit harsh, keep a bottle of Maker’s Mark ($26.99) handy. It’s a transitional libation that masks some of bourbon’s striking flavor in the interest of accessibility.
American rye whiskeys are made using a mash that’s mostly rye, rather than corn. This produces a dense, drier libation — qualities some classic cocktails demand. Purists will tell you rye whiskey is the base spirit for a proper Manhattan. Maine allows only a handful of straight rye whiskeys to be sold here — six, to be exact. Jim Beam Rye ($17.99) is the most popular. (rī)¹ — pronounced “rye one” — is the most critically acclaimed, but I’d be remiss if I didn’t suggest a bottle of Bulleit Rye ($27.99). It’s got a nice round flavor, slightly dry and mellow, with a back-end burn that can be savored in each sip. It’s a truly phenomenal whiskey and my straight-sipper of choice.
Simply put, Tennessee whiskey is bourbon whiskey made in the state of Tennessee. There are currently four distilleries (legally) producing the spirit there, of which three use a method of charcoal filtering known as the Lincoln County Process. This involves running the product through sugar-maple charcoal before the distillate is put in casks for aging. The distillers claim the result of this process is not technically a bourbon, but the distinction has more to do with marketing than taste.
Of the four producers, only two are allowed to sell their product in Maine. Some say Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 ($21.99) is the epitome of American whiskey, because Jack was the first major distiller to use the Lincoln County Process. George Dickel has its own spin on the method. Dickel’s “chill mellowed” whiskey undergoes a cold filtration process by which it is nearly frozen to reach a more viscous state before being filtered. The company claims this results in a cleaner final product. The extra proof (90 compared to Jack’s 80) creates a fuller, brighter burn than Old No. 7, and yet it has a smoother mouth. Go with a bottle of George Dickel No. 12 ($18.99).
Irish Whiskey
Here’s an eternal truth: Irish whiskeys shouldn’t be mixed with a damn thing, the sole exception being a bit of Baileys, provided both are then either poured in a coffee (Irish coffee) or dropped in Guinness (Irish Car Bomb).
Now that you’re in the know, here’s another tip: strive to go beyond the mass-market appeal of Jameson ($24.99). Jameson is an accessible introduction to the genre, but there’s a world of finer, more refined and delicate Irish whiskeys to discover. Take a close look at a bottle of Tullamore Dew ($22.99). It doesn’t get the respect it deserves, despite being the second-best-selling exported Irish whiskey. Paddy Old Irish Whiskey ($33.99) also deserves mention. Paddy’s is one of the cleanest and most articulate of its kind, yet it maintains the soft, spicy heat Irish whiskey is known for.
Lastly, if God’s graces be with you, chance to experience Green Spot. The distillery does not export it from Ireland (it’s sold through a single retail distributor in Dublin), but it’s worth a trip across the pond. Green Spot is the finest, most well-rounded whiskey Ireland has to offer.
Vodka
These days the vodka aisle is crowded with all sorts of infusions, but let’s stick to a couple “flavorless” vodkas worth stocking in the home bar.
More so than any other liquor, vodka wants to be tasteless and odorless, so its producers rely on image to stand out from the crowd. This has led to a glut of overpriced vodkas that are barely distinguishable from one another. It’s absurd. Just stick with a classic: Smirnoff. It’s inexpensive, easy on the palate, and packaged in an iconic bottle. With virtually no aftertaste and a mellow bite, you can mix it with anything.
Smirnoff No.21 ($14.99), the one with the red label, is a damn fine vodka for the money. At 100 proof, Smirnoff No. 57 ($18.99), with the blue label, brings the sharpness necessary to cut through more elaborate mixers. Just stay away from Smirnoff’s flavored products.
If you must dress your vodka to impress, look no further than Chopin ($29.99), a Polish potato-based vodka with a thick, round body. It’s one of the few truly distinguishable vodkas. The starch base gives it a definitive undertone that compliments vermouth (I suggest Martini & Rossi) beautifully. Your Vodka Martinis will appreciate the weight. Before you drink it straight, shake it with ice for a few seconds to open up the bouquet. You won’t find a finer shooting vodka. Chopin is worth two bottles of Smirnoff and will set you back as much, but it’s a worthy addition to a worldly bar.
— Carl Currie
