The Land of Forgotten Cocktails

There are occasional drinkers and there are occasion-al drinkers. I can’t do much for the first type — they seldom drink, and when they do, they aren’t much good at it — but for the second class of drinker, the ones who tailor their cocktail choices to suit the occasion, the month of May is a target-rich environment. It opens with the double whammy of the Kentucky Derby and Cinco de Mayo, quickly followed by World Cocktail Day and Mother’s Day, and finally closing with the three-day bacchanal of backyard barbecues and not-quite-cold beer we call Memorial Day weekend. 

As drinking holidays go, Cinco de Mayo clearly outshines the rest of May’s observances, and the distillate of choice is, of course, tequila. Sadly, tequila is too often treated as the infant terrible of the cocktail pantheon, forever married to slushy margaritas and straight shots in testosterone-fueled, misguided team-building exercises. We all have our tequila story: the night in high school or college when we got so drunk on the stuff that we skipped the fourth stage of tequila (bulletproof) and went straight to the fifth stage (invisible) and then got so sick that we swore we’d never drink tequila again. Because some of you kept that promise, as a public service, we here at the Land of Forgotten Cocktails would like to show you some of the fascinating and diverse uses for what truly is a versatile and
accommodating spirit. 

No, really.

But first we need to get some taxonomy out of the way. Simply put, and without getting too technical, tequila is the fermented and distilled product of the agave plant, which is sort of like a cactus but sort of not. It’s a member of the Amaryllis family.

Gold: Leave it to the marketing department: Call crap “gold” and the world will beat a path to your doorstep. Gold tequila is sweetened and colored with caramel and/or sugar or molasses. It is not 100 percent agave, but must derive at least 51 percent of its sugars from the agave plant. Cuervo Gold is such an animal, and you should walk away from it.

Blanco or Silver: The youngest grade of tequila, it’s aged less than two months before bottling. They tend to be marked by strong, pure agave flavors and a spicy rawness.

Reposado: The middle child of tequila, reposados are aged in oak from two to twelve months. Not quite as harsh as the blancos, they’re a perfect all-purpose tequila, showing the spirit of the blanco with just a touch of mellowness.

Anejo: Aged in oak for one to three years, anejos are great sipping tequilas and appropriate for cocktails for which you want the big, fat mellowness only barrel-aging can give you.

Tequila Julep

Of course, at the Kentucky Derby the Mint Julep is King, if only for the day. But don’t let those Bluegrass State purists fool you: there’s no reason why a julep should only be cast from bourbon. The first American cocktail book, Jerry Thomas’ Bon Vivant’s Companion, lists several Julep recipes, each built on a different base: gin, brandy, or whiskey. Furthermore, his Mint Julep recipe deploys both cognac and Jamaican rum. So why not tequila? Why not indeed! I recommend a good sturdy anejo for this one.

Tequila con Sangrita

I once saw an episode of Blind Date with Steve-O (of Jackass fame). He ordered shots of tequila for himself and his date, and in true Jackass fashion he snorted the salt, ground the lime into his eye and then did the shot. Apparently the traditional tequila trinity had lost its luster for him, and who can blame him, really? Another traditional preparation is to chase the tequila with Sangrita. Sangrita gets its name from its blood-red color, and depending who you believe, it’s red because of either grenadine or tomatoes. My favorite recipe calls for neither, relying instead on blood oranges. Any good tequila will do here, though I might lean towards a Blanco.

Tequila Old Fashioned and Tequila Manhattan

On May 7^th we observe World Cocktail Day, for it was on that date in 1807 that the first known use of the word “cocktail” appeared in print, describing a concoction composed of spirits of any kind, sugar, water and bitters — exactly what you would hope to find in a well-made Old Fashioned. So while the Old Fashioned is the father of all cocktails, the Manhattan is King. All the vermouthy tipples owe their bloodlines to him — especially the Martini — and while his profile has waxed and waned over the years, he’s never quite fallen all the way into obscurity. When made with tequila, both of these cocktails are surprisingly good. Use anejo tequila for both and supplement the usual dose of Angostura bitters with some orange bitters.

Rosita

For sheer elegance, no other tequila cocktail can beat the Rosita. On paper it looks like a disaster, but somehow it hangs together, like those dinners your mother put together when she couldn’t make it to the grocery store. You’ll want a silver tequila in this one, something to stand up to the Campari.

Margarita

I know what you’re thinking: The most popular drink in America is featured in an article about forgotten cocktails? WTF, over? 

Indulge me.

A margarita is simple and uncomplicated and oddly pure. It should taste like tequila but not feel like tequila. Leave it alone. Orange juice or 7 Up is a sign of surrender, and floating Grand Marnier is gilding the lily. Everyone, repeat after me: tequila, Cointreau, (fresh!) lime juice. Class dismissed.

•••

Recipies

Tequila Julep

2 oz anejo tequila
1 tablespoon agave syrup
10 mint leaves 
Crushed ice
Cointreau

Gently muddle the mint and agave syrup. Add the crushed ice. Add the tequila and stir briefly. Top with more ice (if necessary). Drizzle Cointreau over the top and garnish with sprigs of mint. Sip with straws.

Tequila con Sangrita

1 cup blood orange juice
4 jalapenos, chopped
5 sprigs of mint
4 sprigs cilantro
2 oz lime juice
Salt to taste

Blend all ingredients in a blender and serve.

Tequila Old Fashioned

1 tablespoon agave syrup
4 dashes angostura bitters
2 dashes orange bitters
2 oz anejo tequila
Twist of lime

In a double old fashioned glass, mix all ingredients. Add ice and stir. Garnish with wedge of lime.

Tequila Manhattan

3 oz anejo tequila
1 ½ oz sweet vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters
1 dash orange bitters

Add all ingredients to an ice-filled shaker and stir till well chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a twist of lime.

Rosita

1 ½ oz blanco tequila
½ oz Campari
½ oz sweet vermouth
½ oz dry vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters

Add all ingredients to an ice filled shaker and stir till well chilled. Strain into an ice filled tumbler or a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon.

Margarita

3 oz blanco tequila
2 oz Cointreau
1 oz fresh lime juice
(agave syrup or simple syrup is extremely optional)

Add all ingredients to an ice-filled shaker and shake till well chilled. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a lime wedge.