photo/Figgy DiBenedetto
Cantina Calafia
46 Pine St., Portland
536-4019
cantinacalafia.com
Two long years ago, while the rest of the world was cautiously reopening from COVID quarantine, Dominique Gonzalez and Justin Grey closed Bonobo, the beloved wood-fired pizza place in Portland’s West End. The couple, known to friends like me as Doe and Jut, had a bigger dream, a California dream — Baja California, to be exact. And if they had a dollar for every time a neighbor popped in and asked, “When ya gonna be open?” they’d probably have opened Calafia months ago.
My teen son’s first and current job is with Doe and Jut at their new cantina, where the dining room was unveiled last month. I helped out last winter slingin’ tacos and soup from the carryout window around back and occasionally fill in for my kid when he’s away. Even fuller disclosure: they offered me the full-time chef position! Alas, being too old for restaurant life, I had to decline. The kitchen torch was passed to the capable hands of Melody Medina and Quinn Williams, who met at New York’s Frenchette and honed their chops at some of the trendiest bistros in the big city before moving to Portland.
The two couples, with local remodeling firm SGK Design Build, have created a space that breathes fresh air into the old pizza joint: curved banquettes, walnut bars (yes, more than one!) and tabletops, moody disco lighting and a lounge area in front (there are no plans for karaoke there … yet).
All the cantina’s tortillas start with artisan masa harina (corn dough flour). The Tacos de Carnitas with braised pork cheeks and Tacos de Pescado(fish; both two for $16)satisfy with more traditional flavors, and deep-fried tortillas accompany both the homemadesalsa trio ($14)with macha, roja and verde salsas, and the Mejillones en Escabeche ($9) with local mussels and escabeche.
Tostadas also partner up with the Aguachile de Atun (tuna; $19), the Ceviche de Camaron (shrimp; $17) and the Carpaccio de Venado (venison; $17).The hefty portions pair well with the cantina’s creative craft cocktails, and I’ve heard rumors of frozen grown-up drinks for the summer.
There are always a few specials and they sell out quickly (keep an eye on their Instagram to be first in line). Recent specials have included a Sandwich de Cangrejo (soft-shell crab; $28) with avocado and spicy guajillo mayo, a Salmon Crudo & Maine Uni Tostada ($23) and a Blue Corn Sope with octopus, chorizo and ramps ($21).
Dessert, you ask? Si! Chef Mel turns out decadent, yet somehow texturally light and airy plays on traditional sweets. And, like most of the menu, they’re gluten-free! Highlights include a Mexican chocolate mousse ($9) with milk caramel, a goat cheese flan ($10) and a tres leches cake ($11) made with masa, matcha green tea and hibiscus powder–whipped cream. Like a mariachi for your mouth, they are.
I’ve had a front-row seat as this crew poured their hearts into creating the new menu, kitchen and dining room. (Oh, and check out their super chingón bathrooms, into which yours truly put some blood, sweat, tears and nails.) I like to believe fun, hard-working and happy people attract the like, that it’s no accident my son and I are surrounded by loving co-workers and kind customers at this neighborhood gathering place. So keep that dollar in your pocket, my curious friend: the front door is finally open!
Calafia is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 4 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Reservations are now being accepted.
